Fashion Journalism

London Fashion Week AW10

2010-02-23T16:39:39Z

ASHISH

In a somewhat controversial way, I would come close to saying Ashish was my favourite show of this season. I loved the cool, effortless, mannish styling, teaming striped knit beanies with bug eyed sunglasses and flat brogues. Rocking long of lengths skirts with cropped tops, everything was layered to within an inch of its life. Printed sequins sparkled away and slouchy socks were worn with everything. Giant knits were thrown over elegant evening dresses, with a twist. The first girl appeared in sequined pyjama pants. I loved this show for all its quirkyness and cool wearability.

Ann Sofie Back

2009-01-24T19:24:56Z

I must say on first inspection I was somewhat disappointed by Ann Sofie Back’s collection. However having read her intentions, it makes more sense. Continuing from last season’s investigation of celebrity culture-she used plastic surgery and liposuction as an unlikely point of reference. Eyebrows made up to look like post surgical stitches, t shirts with outlines of procedures to be undergone on what ever unfortunate patient was that image obsessed. A series of disco dresses are cut and stretched to resemble the processes involved in a face-lift, while clasps are based on the staples used to hold the skin in place after surgery. Using the sombre colour palette of white, cream, taupe and black accentuated with mint, pistachio and ice cream yellow – plain silks and satins were interspersed with a number of prints. Oversized Manish tailored jackets were among my favourite pieces, nipped in at the waist by skinny leather belts. A bolero jacket in a silk and wool mix was teamed with Capri pants to create a modern take on the suit

Back is another designer focused largely around a message to be drawn from her clothing, which I both respect and admire. She looks at issues surrounding the fashion industry - the image obsessed culture that we live and breathe, and challenges the ideals of fashion itself. I do, however feel that Back focuses too heavily on the message and less on designing a strong or wearable collection.

Peter Jensen

2009-01-24T19:23:38Z

Being one of my all time favourite designers for his quirky, dorky, kitsch style, I always know I will have fun at Jensen. Famous for his distinctive retro prints and androgynous flavour, I was looking forward to seeing the theme for this season. Monochrome suiting for ladies, granddad shirts and flat men’s loafers in satin and leather were teamed with floral oversized men’s blazers. Flowers were abundant, printed in a range of colours on both men’s and womenswear. A slogan emblazoned on one of the t-shirts made me chuckle out loud, “AS QUEER AS A CAT’S FART”. This slogan is representative of Jensen’s usual bonkers collections, but I feel this one was more accomplished and somewhat more grown up. A nod to the silliness of seasons past came in the form of painted fruits and bunny shaped badges. The Jensen girl is a charming tomboy with sporty good looks and a waspy attitude!

The Jensen menswear collection was geeky, sporty, and downright cool. Simple block colours in reds, browns, and dark greens were used to create hooded mac jackets, tailored long shorts , worn with monochrome plimsolls and daz white socks pulled up high. Some more zany creations included a totally floral men’s suit and plaid check blazer in acidic tones. The Jensen boy is the kind of boy that everyone secretly wants to date!

At some points Jensen is definitely growing up in his designs, but in true Peter Pan style the collection is still laced with more than a dose of the good old Jensen humour.

PPQ

2009-01-24T19:22:21Z

An achingly hip front row as ever at PPQ. We were taken on an Ice-cream coloured nautical adventure. Wide and skinny stripes and giant oversized shouldered blazer jackets were teamed with tailored shorts, in a cartoonist Chanel-esq fashion. The whole essence of the label was summed up on a t-shirt enblazened ” DON’T BE A SQUARE”. Entitled ‘Le Style Anglais’ the collection was divided up into five different sections, Hector, Rhombus, Upsilon, Hedron and Zeladon, each describing different garment styles within the show.

The Goth rock vibe of last season was present with giant gold neck chains and spider web knit hot pants in the blackest of wools. Ghetto fabulous P &Q earrings jostled with giant fruit badges giving it a fun, childlike feel. A younger, bubblegum rainbow of colours, it was like PPQ had taken its anti-depressants and was on a colourful high!

John Rocha

2009-01-24T19:20:47Z

Tranquil music set the scene for another fabulous show at John Rocha. Bouclé bubble dresses in soft creams, pure white and candy pinks appeared. The models makeup was a touch Geisha, giving a nod to Rocha’s part Eastern heritage. Pearlised kid leather jumpsuits with intricate beading, in soft pinks and creams. Uneven hemlines were present throughout the show, along with different maxi volumes. Hand knitted black spider web lace was padded out into lampshade skirts and dresses. The girls wore flat’s on the runways, something I haven’t seen at many shows, giving it an all together more relaxed, laid back vibe. The menswear consisted of 7/8th trousers in whiter than white, teamed with sporty red and camel coloured macs. Embroidered shirts with elaborate seams hung loose underneath smart naval-inspired blazer jackets.

Rocha is known for his black, but this collection incorporated lots of fresh colours. As if for dessert, the last run of girls wore beautiful, simple dresses in an array of aqua blues, lemon yellows and candy pinks. Lovely!

Luella

2009-01-24T19:14:25Z

Always one of my most anticipated and favourite shows I was excited to see what Miss Bartley would turn out this season. Set in a unique location in a conservatory right on the Serpentine Lake, Luella this season reminded me of the best garden party ever! Pink balloons and fork in the road signs in pink lead us to our destination nicely. Smocking dresses in acid bright pinks, purples and oranges were childlike and proper but with a rocky tough edge. The colours were of a particular type, sickly sweet and confectionary inspired.

On first glance everything seemed to be present and correct, but as Luella herself described it, it was as though we were looking at everything through psychedelic tinted glasses. The models hair and makeup was quiffed up in true Sloane style, but given a more punky, raw edge. Stitched embroidered flowers sown onto balloon volume skirts, coolified by a grey oversized cardi. A stripy equestrian jacket and riding hat covered in lace, was like dream pony club attire. A lady like feel was achieved with pussy bow clutch bags and sugar pink giant pearl necklaces, but this is the type of lady you are aching to be. High waisted plum coloured, shiny leopard print and layered ruffles a go go, this collection was wearable to a degree, and most certainly aspirational. The witchy girls of last season have cast their magic wands, and created a colourful rock and roll lady. Simply fabulous and has me dying to see who will be the girl de jour for next season.

Marios Schwab

2009-01-24T19:12:27Z

A great turnout at Marios Schwab this season, nice to see at a relatively new kid on the blocks show. Coming out first were pocketed suede waistcoats teamed with shorts giving it a Navaho Indian feel, combined with leather tassling on the shoes. Jumpsuits in orange, lime, fuchsia and plum kid leather. A geometric print rainbow shirt dress was simple and wearable, the fashionista next to me commented on how it would be perfect for Saint Tropez next summer. Skinny skinny sweatpants in nude were far too hip for any London gym. Thick metallic roping in bronze and silver was wound around the waistlines of dresses adding a tougher, rock flavour. The same roping was tied in a criss cross pattern across dresses and skirts, even a whole halter top was made from it. The colour pallet was subdued, mostly in washed out pastels, appearing at almost every show. As journos from Dazed and Confused and ID scribbled away, I don’t doubt Marios will continue to climb further and further up the fashion scale.

Jaeger London

2009-01-24T19:10:56Z

Jaeger London is a brand that is only showing for its second season, the hype surrounding the Jaeger London show was massive. The attention to detail was phenomenal, and the collection was large, so to describe every little thing is almost impossible. Most certainly a 70’s hippie lady character is created, but a beautiful, smart sophisticated hippie. Rainbow tassel knitted dresses appeared alongside Fanta orange and fauna green safari suits, belted in at the waist to flatter. A soft, billowing peasant smock, with a leather satchel bag, a giant oversized pussy bow blouse tucked into high waisted peg leg trousers, modernising the look. Circular, psychedelic print dresses and smocks, giant 135mm block heeled fringed sandals- creating a striking silhoutte. The English garden appears in differently scaled poppy prints, digitalized rainbows and lime sorbet colouring.

Now lets just take a look at accessorizing, which was key to this show. Made by Erickson Beamon exclusively for Jaeger London, it added an eye catching focal point to already strong outfits. Loopy raffia necklaces, leather flowers, multi-stranded ethnic beads and tough looking metal chains. Milliner Stephen Jones made trilbies, and draped or knotted print turbans, adding a raffish, British quality.

Styled by the super stylist Lucinda Chambers it was cleverly put together, brilliantly accessorised and strikingly turned out. However, the collection itself behind all of the show details is strong, wearable, womanly, flattering, elegant, desirable, and down right fantastic. I am in love!

Todd Lynn

2009-01-24T19:02:09Z

Todd Lynn always creates desirable tailoring for ladies, in an androgynous yet flattering silhouette. Referencing the 1975 movie of Nathaniel West’s novel “ The Day Of The Locust’ a film about the doomed journey of a group of Hollywood wannabes in 1938, looks are assertive and immaculate. In true Lynn style the colours from last season remain the same, smoky grey, raspberry red and coffee brown. Shiny PVC fabric dresses are mixed with luxe feather suits, a show of rich, heavy, textured fabrics. Cropped leather bombers and waistcoats in dusky pinks, black and greys. Louboutins add to the polished, glamorous feeling present, and oversized shoulder pads hark back to eras past. The finest gauge knitwear was seen in both men’s and womenswear collections, in blacks and greys. One of the statement looks was an extreme feathered graduated cap sleeve dress, in a quirky hourglass shape. Splashed of disco brights were added with hot pink waistcoats and

The menswear was a combo of slick and casual and rock’n’ roll. Grey knitted trousers with pink knee pads. Structured, streamlined tailoring, that Lynn does best was abundant, but this season with sheer jersey knit sleeves to add a quirk. Lacquered feathers were added as embellishment to Men’s shirts, Louboutin supplying a men’s chukka boot, designed especially for the show. Marvellous!

Charles Anastase

2009-01-24T18:59:54Z

I am almost speechless by the talent that I have already seen at LFW this season and it is only Monday, phew! Charles Anastase’s collection created a new girl de jour, a dorky, space age, ultra hip grandma. Giant obligatory geek glasses graced the faces of most of the cherubs, and lent a kooky cuteness to the collection as a whole. Beginning the show with soft cream skirts and pretty shirts, toughened up by oversized camel coloured platform heels. A boater hat, with a soft white maxi, would almost seem like Henley attire, were it not for the outrageous shoes and dork glasses, making it v fashion. Tutus appeared in orange and plum, over mini trousers, accessorised with a hand knitted oversized cardi.

Nude coloured Ra Ra skirts, teamed with soft cashmere knits and nude over the knee socks, resulted in a feminine and rather wonderful silhouette. Sheer tulle layering was used throughout the show, cut to make flared dresses, and spacey ruffle shirts. The show went a bit Sci-Fi towards the middle, turning out sexy secret agents, not to be messed with. And once more back to the dorky, kooky, geek girl from the beginning. 80s bleached denim, with cornflower yellow knitwear and CHARLES slogan badges was reworking into shrunken jackets and billowing skirts. The last girl to grace the stage was a coquettish, schoolgirl character, with crested blazer and pink chiffon tie, carrying a mini briefcase bag. Brilliantly styled, impeccably made, I want it, I want it, I want It!